FAQs

They're tuberous roots of dahlias that store energy and produce new dahlia plants identical to the parent plant.

Technically, dahlias are tender perennials meaning they'll grow back every year from their underground tubers as long as they don't freeze. Typically, this is in mild zones 8+ though those in slightly colder zones can overwinter them underground with lots of protective mulch to keep them from freezing. Most of us in zone 7 and below, however, grow dahlias as annuals--digging up and storing the tubers over winter to plant the following spring.

Tubers are planted to grow new plants. Plants sold at garden centers were grown from tubers or cuttings and will bloom sooner.

Absolutely! However, unlike tubers or cuttings—which are exact clones of the parent plant—dahlias grown from seed can produce unpredictable results. Why? Because each seed in a dahlia head needs to be pollinated individually. That means one dahlia seed head can have hundreds of different pollen parents. You can’t know exactly what you’ll get when growing dahlias from seeds which is why if you want a specific dahlia variety, you need to grow it from a tuber or a cutting.

Dahlias typically start blooming in mid to late summer and continue flowering until the first frost.

Dahlias prefer full sun for about 6 - 8 hours a day. If you live in a particularly hot climate, however, they'll appreciate late afternoon shade.

Well-draining soil is a must. Dahlia tubers are prone to rot in soggy soil that doesn't drain properly. To improve poorly draining soil, add lots of organic matter like compost, aged manure, or shredded leaves to break up dense soil and create air pockets. You could also consider using perlite or vermiculite. If you have heavy clay soils (I grew dahlias in Georgia before moving to Utah so trust me on this), you'll either want to grow them in raised beds or you'll want to add plenty of organic matter to lighten up the existing soil. I did both—loosened the soil down to about 12" then mixed tons of rotted leaves to the existing soil—leaving me with a slightly raised bed to plant my dahlia tubers into. The pH level of the soil should be nearly neutral at 6.5 - 7.0. If you need to make adjustments, adding lime increases your pH level, while adding sulfur decreases your pH level.

Regardless of where you live, I highly recommend sending in or dropping off a soil sample to your local county extension office before you plant so you know your soil's pH and exactly what amendments your soil needs to grow the healthiest possible dahlias.

When your tubers arrive, open the box right away and check your order to make sure it's correct.

Reach out to us at jodie@dahliasanddogwood.com (not social media) within 48 hours of your order being delivered if you have a concern. After that 48-hour window, the tubers are officially your responsibility but don't worry, our website has the info you need to be successful!

Keep your tubers in the bags and storage medium they were shipped in and hold them in a cool, dark place in your house or garage. To keep them dormant, the temp would need to be below 50 degrees (but always above freezing—do not let them freeze at any point!).

If you don't have an area in your house or garage that stays that cold, don't worry! If they're kept in warmer temps, they will simply begin to "wake up" and may develop little shoots that can give them a head start when they're planted in the ground. I bring all my tubers to a warmer spot (out of the sun at about 70 degrees) to begin waking them up 2 - 3 weeks before planting.

Check the tubers every week for shriveling (conditions are too dry) or mold (conditions are too wet).

If you notice some shriveling (more likely in dry arid climates), it means your tuber is drying out and you need to lightly moisten the peat moss / vermiculite and keep the bag tightly closed to increase moisture.

If you notice white fuzzy mold (more likely in humid climates), it means the conditions are too wet and you need to open the bag for ventilation or poke additional ventilation holes in your bag. A little white fuzzy mold won't hurt the tuber—simply brush it off before planting.

Not really—deer will eat dahlias, especially if food is scarce, but they’re not usually a deer’s first choice.

Yes—most dahlias need support because the plants grow tall and those gorgeous flowers can be heavy! Individual stakes or tomato cages work well for a small number of dahlias. For a larger number of dahlias, I recommend corralling them with t-posts and twine.

I answer this question in detail in the "Dahlia Care" tab here on my website. Check under the "Planting" heading.

I answer this question in detail in the "Dahlia Care" tab here on my website. Check under the "Growing" heading.

I answer this question in detail in the "Dahlia Care" tab here on my website. Check under the "Harvesting" heading.

I answer this question in detail in the "Dahlia Care" tab here on my website. Check under the "Digging & Dividing" heading.